South Island, New Zealand,
December 6, 2009
A report from
Josh Grafam
John and I have just returned from a seven day fly fishing
trip to an area nicknamed "The Cannibal's Gorge".
This area used to be a popular route for a few Maori tribes and the legend says
there was a battle between two of the tribes over
passage through this gorge and the victors celebrated
by feasting on the losers. So we hiked for nine hours
and got to the river where we feasted on oatmeal, rice
and beans, and peanut butter on tortillas. But we
could've used more protein, though! It was raining as
we set up camp so we waited for it to clear.
The next morning did not look very promising. It was cloudy
and wet and the river was up slightly. We made breakfast
and fished for a few hours. We spotted four fish and landed
one and it turned out to be my largest trout of the trip at
8.5 pounds!
By the afternoon the rain came down heavily so we retreated
to our tents. From 4pm it rained and rained and rained. It
rained all night and we woke up the next morning to a
swollen, brown and dirty
river.
We ate breakfast when the rain slowed down at 10am then had
lunch at 2pm but it was still raining. I read a few
books,cover to cover, skipped dinner because it rained hard
till 9pm then ate a few granola bars and a handfull of for
dinner. We tried to sleep as it rained all night again.
We woke up at 8am and it was still raining but it cleared
up for about 20 minutes so we scrambled--packed up and ran
our soaked crap to a hut four miles away.
Well of course then the sun came out so we sat at the hut
splitting firewood and drying out EVERYTHING as we debated
what to do. We had just spent 41 hours in our tents. It was
now sunny but the
river was still up so after being bored out of our minds,
having read all our books in one day, we headed back to the
river the following day.
We fished that afternoon. The sun was out and the river was
still up but you could spot some fish. We landed a few nice
ones; all brown trout over six pounds.
The next day we woke up to more clouds. The weather was
starting to get depressing. Every time we thought it was
going to get better the clouds come in, it rains and the
river goes up. We fished all of day six in the clouds. We
did spot a few fish and had a good day but the river was
just not cooperating.
John and I finally decided to bail. On day seven we walked
14 miles back to our car and this turned out to be a good
decision. It rained for three hours during our hike and the
river was definitely unfishable again. If we stayed we
would just be sitting in our tents! New Zealand weather can
be finicky and although you walk all that way to fish a
river, you have no control over the conditions. Luckily we
did manage to land a few really nice fish and have a good
time.
This was John's last fishing trip for this expedition. We
are staying in Christchurch for the next few days
before he flies back to Wyoming on Dec. 10. It has
been great fishing with John for the last five weeks.
I will be taking a six day break before I meet up with
Josh and Marty to start my second phase of the trip. I
will fish for seven weeks with the Jack Dennis boys.
There are many more stories to come.
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